Do Arborvitae Need Winter Care?
Most established arborvitae are tough, cold-hardy trees that handle winter just fine on their own. But there are specific situations — newly planted trees, exposed sites, heavy snow zones, and certain varieties — where a little winter prep makes a big difference between a tree that thrives and one that spends the next summer recovering.
This guide covers everything: winter burn, snow load, burlap wrapping, pre-freeze watering, and what to do in spring when the damage is already done.
Winter Hardiness by Variety
Before worrying about winter care, know your variety’s cold limit:
| Variety | Hardiness Zone | Winter Risk Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Emerald Green | Zone 3–8 | Low | Most cold-hardy arborvitae; handles brutal winters well |
| Green Giant | Zone 5–8 | Low–Moderate | Hardy but susceptible to winter burn on exposed sites |
| Elegantissima | Zone 5–8 | Moderate | More drought-tolerant but watch for wind burn |
| Golden Globe | Zone 3–8 | Low | Very cold-hardy; low profile reduces wind exposure |
The #1 Winter Problem: Winter Burn
Winter burn is the most common arborvitae winter problem — and it’s frequently misdiagnosed as disease or cold damage. It looks like browning foliage, usually on the south, west, or windward side of the tree, appearing in late winter or early spring.
What causes winter burn:
When the ground is frozen, arborvitae roots can’t absorb water. But on sunny winter days, the foliage still loses moisture through transpiration — especially on the south and west sides where sun and wind hit hardest. The foliage desiccates and turns brown.
Which trees are most at risk:
- Newly planted trees (first 1–2 winters) — shallow root systems can’t access deep soil moisture
- Trees on exposed, windy sites — corner lots, open fields, hilltops
- Trees on south or west-facing exposures — more sun and wind in winter
- Elegantissima and Green Giant on exposed sites — larger surface area means more moisture loss
Full Guide: Why Is My Arborvitae Turning Brown? →
Step 1: Water Deeply Before the Ground Freezes
This is the single most effective thing you can do to prevent winter burn. A well-hydrated tree going into winter has far more moisture reserves in its foliage and roots than a dry one.
- Water deeply in late October or early November — before the ground freezes but after temperatures have cooled
- Give each tree a slow, deep soak — let a hose trickle at the base for 20–30 minutes per tree
- This is especially critical for trees planted in the last 1–2 years
- If fall has been dry, water 2–3 times in the 4–6 weeks before freeze-up
Step 2: Apply Fresh Mulch in Late Fall
A 2–3 inch layer of wood chip mulch around each tree does two things in winter:
- Insulates the root zone — keeps soil from freezing as deeply, which means roots stay active longer and can absorb moisture further into the season
- Retains soil moisture — reduces the moisture deficit that causes winter burn
Apply mulch in a ring extending to the drip line (outer edge of branches). Keep it 2–3 inches away from the trunk — mulch piled against the trunk causes rot and rodent damage.
Step 3: Burlap Wrapping for Exposed Sites
Burlap wrapping is worth the effort for newly planted trees or trees on exposed sites. It blocks desiccating wind and reduces direct sun exposure on the foliage — the two main drivers of winter burn.
How to burlap wrap arborvitae correctly:
- Drive 3–4 wooden stakes around the tree, just outside the branch tips — not through the branches
- Wrap burlap around the stakes to create a windbreak screen — do not wrap tightly around the tree itself (this traps moisture and can cause fungal issues)
- Secure the burlap with twine or staples
- Leave the top open for air circulation
- Install in late November after the tree has hardened off for the season
- Remove in early April before new growth starts — leaving it on too long causes etiolation (weak, pale growth)
Which trees need burlap:
- ✅ Newly planted trees (first 1–2 winters) on any site
- ✅ Any arborvitae on a corner lot, hilltop, or open field
- ✅ Trees on south or west-facing exposures with no windbreak
- ❌ Established trees in sheltered locations — generally not needed
- ❌ Emerald Green in Zone 5+ sheltered sites — very cold-hardy, usually fine without
Step 4: Manage Snow Load
Heavy, wet snow can bend and break arborvitae branches — especially on columnar varieties like Emerald Green and Elegantissima where multiple leaders grow close together.
How to prevent snow damage:
- Tie columnar varieties loosely with soft twine in late fall — wrap in a gentle spiral from bottom to top to hold the leaders together without constricting growth
- After a heavy snowfall, brush snow off branches gently with a broom using an upward sweeping motion — never shake the tree or knock snow down from above
- Do not try to remove ice from branches — let it melt naturally; forcing it off causes more damage than the ice itself
Green Giant and snow:
Green Giant’s strong, flexible branches handle snow load well. Its pyramidal form naturally sheds snow. Snow damage is rarely a problem unless the snowfall is extreme.
Step 5: Anti-Desiccant Spray (Optional)
Anti-desiccant sprays (like Wilt-Pruf) coat the foliage with a thin waxy film that reduces moisture loss through transpiration. They’re most useful for:
- Newly planted trees on very exposed sites
- Situations where burlap wrapping isn’t practical
- Elegantissima and Green Giant on south/west exposures
Apply in late November when temperatures are above 40°F but the tree has hardened off. Reapply once in January or February if you have a long, harsh winter. Follow label directions — over-application can block gas exchange and stress the tree.
Winter Care by Variety
| Variety | Pre-Freeze Watering | Mulch | Burlap (Exposed Sites) | Snow Tie |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Green Giant | Yes — critical in yr 1–2 | Yes | Yes (yr 1–2, exposed) | Not needed |
| Emerald Green | Yes | Yes | Yes (yr 1–2, exposed) | Recommended |
| Elegantissima | Yes | Yes | Yes (exposed sites) | Recommended |
| Golden Globe | Yes | Yes | Rarely needed | Not needed |
What to Do in Spring If You See Winter Damage
Don’t panic if your arborvitae has brown foliage in March or April. Here’s how to assess and respond:
- Wait until late April or May before doing anything — new growth will often mask or replace winter-burned foliage
- Scratch a branch with your fingernail — if the tissue underneath is green, the branch is alive and will recover
- Prune dead branches only after new growth has flushed and you can clearly see what’s dead vs. recovering
- Water and fertilize in spring to support recovery — a stressed tree needs resources to push new growth
Why Is My Arborvitae Turning Brown? Full Diagnosis Guide →
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I wrap my arborvitae in burlap every winter?
Only if your trees are newly planted (first 1–2 winters) or on an exposed site with heavy wind or sun exposure. Established arborvitae in sheltered locations generally don’t need burlap.
Why is my arborvitae turning brown in winter?
Almost always winter burn — foliage desiccation from wind and sun when the ground is frozen and roots can’t replace lost moisture. It’s not a disease. See our full browning diagnosis guide for the full breakdown.
Do arborvitae lose their color in winter?
Emerald Green holds its rich color all winter with no bronzing — one of its best traits. Green Giant stays mostly green with minimal bronzing. Elegantissima retains its silvery-gold color year-round. Golden Globe may bronze slightly in very cold winters but greens back up in spring.
Can arborvitae survive Zone 3 winters?
Emerald Green and Golden Globe are both hardy to Zone 3 and handle severe winters reliably. Green Giant and Elegantissima are rated to Zone 5 and are not recommended for Zone 3 without significant protection.
When should I remove burlap from arborvitae?
Remove burlap in early April — before new growth starts. Leaving it on too long traps heat and causes weak, pale new growth. Don’t remove it during a cold snap; wait for consistently mild temperatures.
Shop Arborvitae at Weaver Family Farms
All four varieties are grown right here at our nursery and shipped ready to plant.
Green Giant → Emerald Green → Elegantissima → Golden Globe →
More Arborvitae Resources
Why Is My Arborvitae Turning Brown? → How to Plant Arborvitae → Best Arborvitae for Privacy Screens → How Fast Does Arborvitae Grow? → Which Arborvitae Should I Plant? →
About the Author
Dax Weaver is the owner of Weaver Family Farms Nursery, a family-run nursery specializing in fruit trees, berry plants, and privacy evergreens shipped direct to homeowners across the US. Dax has spent years growing and studying the plants he sells, with a focus on helping customers choose the right variety for their specific site, zone, and goals. When he’s not in the nursery, he’s writing practical growing guides based on real-world experience — not just what the textbooks say.
